When I was getting my degree in textiles design, I spent a lot of time staring at the piles of waste yarn next to my loom thinking about how I was entering into one of the most wasteful industries in the world. This was a phrase I’d always repeat to myself in my head, though I’d be the first to admit it is a very vague and very dramatic statement. “Wasteful” how? “Sustainable” what? “Ethical” using what metric? Buzzwords surrounding “sustainable” sourcing and making and marketing have flooded the market in recent years, preying on the growing moral consciousness of consumers. It’s hard (for me, at least) to keep track of what any of it means, how much of it is legitimate, and what I can do about it.

This is my attempt at cataloguing all the nuances to the innumerable sustainability problems in the textiles industry, from the raw materials to the end of the product’s lifecycle, from fast fashion culture to ethical labor sourcing. None of this is particularly new, but it’s meant to be a resource to help me (and maybe someone else!) better understand the problems I should be addressing as a designer, and the solutions that I can advocate for and practice as a consumer. I doubt that I’ll get a comprehensive view of this massive problem on the first try, so I’ll be writing this a little at a time and I’ll keep updating it as I continue to learn more. Here goes nothing: 

Maybe it’s a good idea to first define “sustainability”

I put off writing this for many months because of the enormous task of trying to pinpoint what I was using as a metric for sustainability. It seemed to me that there are two main pillars of sustainability: one that is planet-focused, and one that is people-focused.

Planet-focused metrics include the carbon footprint each step of the way through production and distribution. It includes water usage and land usage in the production of raw materials, as well as post-production waste. On the consumer-facing side, it includes how to communicate proper care for and disposal of clothing, to help prolong the product lifecycle.

People-focused metrics include equitable pay and ethical labor practices every step of the way. It also includes inclusive hiring practices, diversity in the bodies that are designed for and that represent the products. It also includes accessible pricing, which is one of the biggest hurdles in this entire ordeal.

Now that I know what I’ll be looking into, I have a better framework from which to approach the rest of the topics in this conversation. 

Future sections I want to talk about: 

• Fibers: Natural vs. Synthetic vs. Manmade cellulosic
• Manufacturing: Methods of Make
• Post-processing: Dying + Finishing
• Representation in retail
• The consumer’s responsibilities
• How can we start doing better?

I wanted to add a lil’ disclaimer here and mention that I’m here learning about this entire world alongside you. If you have any additional questions or comments on the accuracy of this, please please please drop a note!  I’d love to educate and be educated or just have a chat with someone else who is passionate about this. Cheers, Em.